V2 (24V)

Lewmar V2 Windlass 24V

850W vertical anchor windlass, 24V variant. 60A working current at 24V; Lewmar specifies a 50A thermal breaker. The 12V variant has a 700W motor drawing 80A, with a 90A breaker; the 24V variant uses a higher-rated 850W motor.

The reference run on this page is 3 m one way, sized against ABYC E-11. Your own run will differ, and the canvas sizes that one.

Wiring diagram

How the V2 windlass 24V is wired.

The drawing shows where the feed, the return and the fuse land on this part. The starter uses the same reference circuit and sizing assumptions. Read the installation notes for manufacturer requirements before adapting the runs.

Lewmar V2 Windlass 24V wiring diagram, 10 mm² (8 AWG) positive feed protected by a 80 A fuse and a matching negative return between the 24 V battery bank and the unit.
Open starter in Crimp

Build it out

Build the system it goes in.

Open the canvas with V2 (24V) already placed, then add your batteries, charging, distribution and loads around it.

Every cable you draw there is sized against ABYC E-11, from the same tables as the reference on this page.

Technical reference

Specs, terminals and the parts around them.

The catalog facts for this part, which terminal takes what, and the hardware you'll want around it. Check the nameplate on your own unit before you order.

Catalog specification

Compatible systems
24 V
Continuous draw
60 A
Surge current
70 A

3 m reference run

24 V system

Wire
10 mm² · 8 AWG
Fuse
80 A
Design current
60 A
Voltage drop
2.7%

Sized against ABYC E-11. Boats built to UK or EU rules answer to ISO 13297 — check these figures against it before you build. The design current is the part's continuous draw. The length is one way; voltage drop includes an equal-length return. The shared starter uses 3.048 m (10 ft) runs unless a shorter run is stated. These are example assumptions for you to adapt to your own installation.

Supporting parts

  1. 6 m total of 10 mm² (8 AWG) marine cable
  2. Terminations for 10 mm² cable, matched to the equipment's screw terminals, leads or studs
  3. 80 A fuse and holder on the positive run
  4. Heat-shrink, strain relief and terminal boots sized to the cable

Check stud sizes, fuse type, run length and how warm the space gets against the gear you actually have before you order.

Terminal map

Catalog connection points, current direction and planning limits. Check the manufacturer's pinout and connector ratings before installation.

+

pos

positive · input

70 A

neg

negative · input

70 A

Method & provenance

What is known, assumed and computed.

The manufacturer publishes some of these numbers and Crimp works out the rest. It's worth knowing which is which.

From the maker

What the catalog says

Manufacturer, model, ratings and which terminal does what come from the catalog. A newer revision, or the nameplate on the unit in your hand, can say something different — when it does, the nameplate wins.

ABYC E-11

What Crimp worked out

Sized against ABYC E-11. Boats built to UK or EU rules answer to ISO 13297 — check these figures against it before you build. The run length and the current above are what drive the result. Crimp doesn't know how warm your space gets; draw the cable inside an engine-bay zone on the canvas and it sizes for the heat.

Read how the sizing works

Next step

Draw the V2 windlass 24V into your own system.

It lands on the canvas already placed. Add what it connects to, and every run gets its wire and fuse as you draw.