From the maker
What the catalog says
Manufacturer, model, ratings and which terminal does what come from the catalog. A newer revision, or the nameplate on the unit in your hand, can say something different — when it does, the nameplate wins.
8S 24V smart BMS
8S (25.6V) LiFePO4 protection BMS with Bluetooth/UART. Common-port: charger and load share one switched negative (P−); the pack positive does not enter the BMS. Sold 80–250A; modeled at 150A.
This part has no feed of its own to size, so its cables are sized from the complete system topology once you draw what it connects to.
Wiring diagram
The drawing shows where the feed, the return and the fuse land on this part. The starter uses the same reference circuit and sizing assumptions. Read the installation notes for manufacturer requirements before adapting the runs.
Build it out
Open the canvas with 8S 24V smart BMS already placed, then add your batteries, charging, distribution and loads around it.
Every cable you draw there is sized against ABYC E-11, from the same tables as the reference on this page.
Technical reference
The catalog facts for this part, which terminal takes what, and the hardware you'll want around it. Check the nameplate on your own unit before you order.
Check stud sizes, fuse type, run length and how warm the space gets against the gear you actually have before you order.
Catalog connection points, current direction and planning limits. Check the manufacturer's pinout and connector ratings before installation.
B−
b-neg
negative · input
P−
p-neg
negative · output
Method & provenance
The manufacturer publishes some of these numbers and Crimp works out the rest. It's worth knowing which is which.
From the maker
Manufacturer, model, ratings and which terminal does what come from the catalog. A newer revision, or the nameplate on the unit in your hand, can say something different — when it does, the nameplate wins.
ABYC E-11
Sized against ABYC E-11. Boats built to UK or EU rules answer to ISO 13297 — check these figures against it before you build. The run length and the current above are what drive the result. Crimp doesn't know how warm your space gets; draw the cable inside an engine-bay zone on the canvas and it sizes for the heat.
Next step
It lands on the canvas already placed. Add what it connects to, and every run gets its wire and fuse as you draw.